Diary of a Foodie Appearance: Aromas

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I'm on the latest episode of Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie, "Aromas: Fragrance and Taste", and wondering whatever happened to Smell-O-Vision? Seriously. At least we can watch the preview online.

Sneak a peek at the fascinating Monell Chemical Senses Center; Morocco's argan tree climbing goats - yes, I said goats; and hot Coi chef/owner Daniel Patterson (BTW is it wrong to treat him like beefcake?) with Aftelier Perfumes' adorable Mandy Aftel. They're co-authors of Aroma: The Magic of Essential Oils in Foods and Fragrance. Mandy also makes an excellent line of Chef's Essences, which a fabulously-maned Ruth Reichl called "magical".

I was in Grasse, the historic parfumerie town in the south of France, to visit the kitchen and sunny hillside gardens of Jacques Chibois. Oh the things I do for you. He creates a Provençal "Aroma Menu" using edible flowers, including dishes like La Salade de Saint Jacques avec son Blanc Manger de Pomme de Terre, Olives, Mitonnée de Tomate [Salad of Scallops with Blanc Manger of Potatoes, Olives, and Mitonnée of Tomato] seen above. Why, yes, he did toss in a few slices summer black truffles, over the golden sunflower petals.

I've actually been on a few episodes again this season. Some segments ended up on the cutting room floor, but I am so not complaining. This year I've had the insane fortune to travel the world and this time work seriously behind the camera.

To see the show, check your local listings, which I am continuing to exhaustively compile.

Alton Brown Q&A

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Here's my Alton Brown Q&A up on CHOW - with added bonus material. It was actually the first time AB and I really met. During my taping of Iron Chef America, in the short breaks, AB was either running around backstage - wild-eyed, muttering food facts and figures to himself - or in deep conversation with Make-a-Wish kids in the audience. The photo above is from the demo he gave at the recent International Home and Housewares Show in Chicago. For more AB photos, look here and here.

Alton Brown not only represents our inner food geek, he revels it. He's best known for Good Eats, his long-running Food Network show that blends cooking, science, history, and pun-ny prop comedy to demystify ingredients, techniques, and gear. He also announces the detailed play-by-play on Iron Chef America, the U.S. version of the classic, melodramatic Japanese culinary competition show of the same name, in which a challenger chef enters Kitchen Stadium to battle a resident Iron Chef with a secret ingredient. With his pair of Feasting on Asphalt mini-series he leads his motorcycle-mounted film crew on cinematic, cross-country tours of American roadfood, the first traveling from Savannah on the East Coast to L.A. on the West, and the second tracing the Mississippi river, from its Louisiana delta to Minnesota headwaters. He's currently shooting his third Feasting, which leaves the road and States behind. I caught up with AB during his recent visit to Chicago's Museum and Science and Industry, where he gave a food-meets-science talk to 850 hardcore fans, signing copies of his four books, from his first to latest. He also revealed that the long-awaited Good Eats books - yes, more than one - are finally in the works.

LC: I've heard that the next Feasting on Asphalt is not going to be on asphalt at all, but that it's not Feasting on Waves. Where are you going and how?

AB: We're going to be down in the Caribbean on catamarans and scuba diving too. I'm fascinated by the convergence of cultures there. It can really be considered the birthplace of American cuisine. I can't divulge the locations for various reasons nor can I tell you what I hope to catch, because frankly I have no expectations. We're shooting the first three weeks in April and the show premieres this September.

LC: Your new book, Feasting on Asphalt: The River Run, looks like it was actually your personal journal of the road trip. How much of it was really what you collected on the road?

AB: It really was my journal. I was hoping to just directly scan a lot of the notes I'd taken but they were too worn and faded to be legible. Instead they just created a font out of my handwriting and used that instead.

LC: Why wasn't there a book for the first Feasting?

AB: We had no idea what was going to happen. We didn't know if there was going to be enough for a book. We didn't plan fo rone.

LC: I've also read that you're planning on doing a Feasting on Rails? Where would you go? It seems that most of the great dining cars are gone. France and Japan maybe?

AB: Those are possibilities. I'm fascinated by once great cultures - like rail culture - that are at their nadir, then examining them at their height. I want to know what they were like then, before it went so wrong? That's what I want to look at.

LC: And are you serious about Feasting in Air and Space?

AB: It is my sincere hope to do a Feasting in Air and Space. I'm currently working on getting my pilot's license. I could have had it by know but I'm busy doing all this other stuff! And we have Good Eats fans in NASA so I do believe this is a distinct possibility. The network just loves it when I talk about doing stuff like this!

LC: So just how are your collarbone (broken during the first Feasting) and wrist (broken last Christmas Eve getting into the shower)?

AB: I'm fine. I've got titanium in there. (AB points to a faint, cross-hatched scar on his left wrist, vertical, about two inches long.)

LC: Does it set off metal detectors?

AB: No, there's not enough mass. It's extremely thin. But I wish it did!

LC: Congratulations on re-signing with Food Network for three more years. What's going on with Good Eats?

AB: We just finished shooting some episodes in February, then we'll go back to shoot more later this year. I'm just happy to be employed. I don't take anything for granted.

LC: You're shooting your 12th season of Good Eats. I think a lot of people mistake your first two books for GE books. When is a Good Eats book coming out?

AB: I'm working on them now. There will be two volumes actually. The first book will cover the first 100 episodes and the next, eventually up to the 200th show, roughly. We don't have the release dates yet but I'll let you know.

LC: There's a big question out there with gamers, are you going to be involved in the new Iron Chef American Supreme Cuisine game? Because only the Chairman is seen in the trailer.

AB: Yes! I'm going in to record for it in July. And I'll be playing myself.

LC: I've also read that you're planning on addressing some of the big food issues. How?

AB: One of the things I'll be doing is hosting the Monterey Bay Aquarium's sustainable seafood event [Cooking for Solutions] in May. It's a challenge to address food issues and make it entertaining, but I'm looking forward to that challenge. As my daughter [Zoey, 8 years-old] gets older, it's increasingly important to me to illuminate the issues.

LC: What's your go-to meal? (This was a question from the museum event, from a member of the audience who signed his name "Strat". AB did a Q&A on stage after his talk.)

AB: The food I cook at home is very, very simple. I bought my wife a panini press. Don't ask me which one. I just  went in and asked for the most expensive one. Hey, it was a gift for my wife! I think it's a Krups. So now we take Cornish hens and butterfly them. We lay them out flat and cook them in the panini press. It's really fast and there's something very gratifying about crushing those bones. So now when we need a fast meal at home, it's "Quick! Somebody get me some Cornish hens!"

LC: What's your favorite curse word? (Also from the museum. Minutes before he went on stage, AB got the idea to do an Inside the Actors Studio type questionnaire - with me playing James Lipton.)

AB: "Oh bother." I'm from the South.

Let it be known that Alton Brown can drop f-bombs with the best of them.

 

El Bulli 2008: Sneak Preview

El Bulli's opening day is tomorrow.

By the way, how did those reservations work out this year? Is anyone else going?

I have a friend staging there this season, Lee Wolen, most recently chef at the late Butter restaurant in Chicago - no relation to celebstaurant Butter in New York.

Lee sent this email over the weekend:

from: lee wolen <xxxxxxxxx@gmail.com>
to: Louisa Chu <louisa@movable-feast.com>
date: Sun, Mar 30, 2008 at 2:48 PM
subject: el bulli
signed by: gmail.com
just writing to say i am here safe and sound and have been working for 4 days now. It's beautiful here and we get 2 and a half days a week off and once a month we get 4 days in a row off. The biggest problem is my language and it's impossible to understand them and speak back so i have to follow every one. I can't read any recipes and pretty much nobody seems to care to speak in english. the place is amazing tho and hopefully it will get better. hope all is well and will talk to you soon
-- Lee

Lee actually just started taking intensive Spanish lessons, as soon as he received his acceptance letter a few months ago. And things will get better once service starts of course.

Last night was the annual pre-season Friends and Family. Ferran himself personally hand-picks guests every year. The list is never the same and he never explains his choices. That is truly the toughest reservation in the world. Check out the exclusive undercover footage.

France: The New Guarde

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(Blogger/author Clotilde Dusoulier, pastry chef Sadaharu Aoki, cameraman Eric Shirai, and producer Travis Shakespeare)

The highly anticipated Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie's France episode premieres this week! Find your local listing here.  And watch the preview here.

"France: The New Guarde" features Sada at his salon de thé and laboratoire in the 5th arrondissement of Paris with Clotilde; Inaki Aizpitarte at Le Chateaubriand with Sébastien Demorand; Gilles Choukroun and Omnivore founder Luc Dubanchet at Le Mini Palais with yours truly; Armand Arnal at La Chassagnette in the wild countryside of Arles with me again; and Zanne Stewart in the top secret, inner sanctum Gourmet test kitchen working with Silpat.

And watch for the series premiere on National Geographic worldwide soon!

Absinthe: American Edition

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(Photo: The making of Neptune's Wrath, an absinthe and chartreuse cocktail, recipe in my absinthe-in-America article in the Chicago Tribune. Thanks Kirk Estopinal, bartender, and Toby Maloney, mixologist, at The Violet Hour.)

Everyone who's ever tasted absinthe has a first-time horror story.

In 1996 Ted actually asked a colleague to bring a bottle of Hill's back from the Czech Republic to New Orleans, "it might as well have been window cleaner and vodka," he said. A year later, David, half a world away in South Africa, fell for the same infamous Czech-sinthe, remembering it as "highly alcoholic mouthwash." Lance had only himself to blame, distilling his own, "it was insanely bitter, but I drank it anyway." Hiram was worse, he just soaked herbs in alcohol resulting in "absolutely vile horrible stuff."

Not me. These lips have never tasted Czech-sinthe, moon-sinthe, or any kind of crap-sinthe. I'm like a convent-raised absinthe drinker - if you can expand your mind to view Cantada II - the punk, metal, HxC bar in the gritty 11th arrondissement of Paris - as my absinthe convent school. Mickey, the owner, who looks straight out of 30 Days of Night and is a big sweetheart, currently lists 25 different absinthes his menu, most of them good, with more to come.

My teachers? I tasted my first absinthe under the eye of Peter Schaf, the Paris-based, Wisconsin-born absintheur, who's one of the most quietly influential absinthe makers, consultants, and obsessives alive in the world today. You saw Peter educating Tony too on the very first episode of No Reservations in Paris.

David Nathan-Maister, the mastermind behind Oxygénée, supplied my first taste of pre-ban absinthe, when we trekked out to Pontarlier, French birthplace of the spirit, to appear on the Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie episode "Contraband Cuisine".

The best place to drink absinthe? Forget about knee-deep in celebs at the Waverly Inn. Try the hill overlooking Pontarlier at dusk, sipping ultra-rare, vintage absinthe with Peter and David, at the mouth of a mausoleum.

While you'll probably never share that experience with those cats, the renaissance of Absinthe in America may banish the horror stories to history.

Even with Mansinthe. Markus Lion, the respected German absintheur (who allowed me to taste the prototype at the Absinthiades back in 2006, nothing like the current product) said it should be out by April pending final approval. "We hope that because it's Manson it won't be a big deal," he said. Hopefully not with the authorities anyway. I tasted it at Cantada and Mansinthe is a surprisingly lovely, gentle drink.

(Despite what the Epi dudes say.)

"Absinthe aromas can vary from alpine flowers to an overheated sexual smell," said Peter.

And doesn't that sound like a very good first time?

Pierre Hermé €1,900 5 Day Dessert Course

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How much are Pierre Hermé pastries worth to you? I wrote an article about Mr. H for the Chicago Tribune's special Valentine's Day Eve pastry section today.

The web edition has four links:

  1. the main story, about his influence on the taste and texture of desserts, from Dorie to Alex Stupak
  2. with Dorie's recipe for the revolutionary Tarte au Citron whose technique impressed even Alex (from "Baking")
  3. another Dorie recipe, this one for her essential sweet tart dough
  4. plus a sidebar about PH's upcoming workshop at the French Pastry School in Chicago - only 20 pros will be picked by lottery on Leap Day

If you don't make it into the FPS class, the Atelier Pierre Hermé offers year-round workshops in Paris at Ferrandi.

I visited the holiday pastries class. A half-dozen pastry chefs from around France closed up their own shops to master inverted puff pastry (recipe in "Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé") and make the signature galettes des rois and seasonal white truffle hazelnut macaroons.

At the end of the three-day class, we sat down for a tasting and critique. As stacks of dessert plates and piles of forks grew, a few of the chefs, all big men, gave up. I didn't, but felt like a hyperglycemic Violet Beauregarde for days.

The class I've been wanting to take the most is "Desserts de Restaurant". It adds the elements of temperature and plating to Pierre Hermé's artistry - and that's the one that's €1,900 ($2,770) for five days. A session ends this Friday, but runs again December 1 to 5. The courses are taught in French but English is available upon request. Each student walks away with not only hands-on experience, but a binder full of recipes, with detailed construction diagrams, a list of ingredient sources - and hopefully a better understanding of the philosophy of Pierre Hermé to better create their own desserts.

He does not personally teach at the Atelier; his longtime chefs do. He did stop in to the holiday class however. He barely stepped inside the kitchen's doorway to unobtrusively observe as the chefs raced around completing their tasks. Their teamwork was impressive, even more so given that they'd never worked together and only met two days prior. One by one, they carefully washed and dried their hands, then went over to shake the master's hand - and ask for autographs on the binder of his recipes.

Listen and talk to Dorie live on the radio today, February 13, from 4:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. ET on the Martha Stewart Living Radio show Eatdrink, hosted by Lucinda Scala Quinn, co-host of Everyday Food on PBS (also home to Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie - shameless plug).

And watch Alex this week in Iron Chef America Chocolate Battle against Cat Cora. (*Spoiler alert below the Tarte au Citron au Citron - Lemony Lemon Tart. This new version contains not only the lemon cream but also candied lemon zest and lemon gelée. I'm guessing the gelée is made with gellan, which he also uses for hidden cubes of Natco rose syrup flavored flavored gelée in the Ispahan entremets.)

A lot of my friends have been shocked by the cost of the workshops - "$3,000 for cookies?!". I remind them that pros can learn how to make bite-sized black truffle macaroons, that they too can then sell for $12 each - with Pierre Hermé's blessing. But even if you're not setting up shop, if you could, wouldn't you do it too?

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(photo courtesy Pierre Hermé Paris)

*SPOILER ALERT: Alex won! Though I can't believe he only outscored Cora by two points - in originality.

New Gourmet Website!

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If you subscribe to Gourmet Weekly, Ruth Reichl and company's hebdomadal newsletter, then you knew the new Gourmet website launched today.

It did - and it is spectacular.

I've been exploring the entire site since it went live early this morning. It's like running through a brand new house, discovering luxurious comforts never dreamed of in the old place, much less the breathtaking vistas - and even finding my own room!

Among the many exciting features, Diary of a Foodie has its own wing on the compound too. And you will be able to watch the entire first season online! (Thanks Adrian and Susan for confirming that you could watch from Paris and Hong Kong!) As of today, only the first three episodes are available, but all 20 will be up soon.

Gourmet.com will be updated every weekday. Plus you can read articles from past and current issues, including the new piece about Marco Pierre White cooking in Jamaica, written by my friend and fearless Chicago Tribune reporter, Monica Eng. And watch MPW in the test kitchen too!

(My Choptalk post on Marco didn't make the move - but neither did any dubious photos from my night out with him on the town so I'm happy to just leave it at that.)

Remember to subscribe to Gourmet Weekly - that too is undergoing a redesign, which Ruth says we'll see next week

By the way, speaking of makeovers, what do you think of Ruth's new look? I think she's rocking it.

Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie Season 2 Premiere!

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UPDATE: Find your local PBS station and airtime here. Watch Season 1 online here.

Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie Season 2 premieres this weekend on PBS in the US! The first four episodes will be "Southern India: The Spice of Life", "New Zealand: The Rugged Land", "Bread: The Foundation of a Meal", and "Hidden Hong Kong". I can't wait to see Gourmet's Bangalore correspondent, Shoba Narayan, and my dear friend and South China Morning Post Food Editor, Susan Jung. And watch what happens when Steven Kaplan, Cornell professor and baguette expert, wields his bread knife in France!

I was on location in France and the US Midwest again, so yes, you'll see me in episodes throughout the season. This year there's an entire show devoted to France - and to bloggers. You may have seen Clotilde's beautiful post about her shoot with Sadaharu Aoki. (I love you too Clo) Look for David and a few other beloved bloggers too.

Please note that most PBS stations do not repeat episodes so you have but one chance to watch or record.

International friends, the series will again air as Chic Eats, but this year on the National Geographic Channel.

And not only did Season 1 win the James Beard award, but we just heard that we won the CINE Golden Eagle too! Thank you Gourmet, Zero Point Zero (who also produce a little show with Bourdain), and WGBH!

I've compiled a comprehensive list of PBS stations with Foodies currently on their schedules. Sadly it's not playing in all markets - and this season that includes my hometown Chicago. If you find that I've missed your local station, please let me know and I'll update the list. Thanks!

WGBH (Boston, MA)
Premiere January 12
Saturdays, 4:00 p.m.

WNET (New York, NY)
Premiere January 6
Sundays, 4:00 p.m.

NJN (Trenton, NJ)
Premiere January 5
Saturdays, 7:30 p.m.

WQED (Pittsburgh, PA)
Premiere January 5
Saturdays, 5:00 p.m.

WITF (Harrisburg, PA)
Premiere January 12
Saturdays, 11:30 a.m.

WHUT (Washington D.C)
Premiere January 7
Mondays, 7:30 a.m.

NHPTV (Durham, NH)
Premiere January 5
Saturdays, 1:00 p.m.

WPBT (Miami, FL)
Premiere January 12
Saturdays, 4:00 p.m.

APTV (Birmingham, AL)
Premiere January 14
Sundays, 10:30 p.m.

KET (Louisville KY)
Premiere January 11
Fridays, 7:30 p.m.

NPT (Nashville, TN)
Premiere January 5
Saturdays, 12:30 p.m.

MPTV (Milwaukee, WI)
Premiere January 19
Saturdays, 12:30 p.m.

TPT (St. Paul, MN)
Premiere January 12
Saturdays, 12:00 p.m.

IPTV (Johnston, IA)
Premiere January 13
Sundays, 9:30 p.m.

KERA (Dallas, TX)
Premiere January 12
Saturdays, 5:00 p.m.

KACV (Amarillo, TX)
Premiere January 12
Saturdays, 12:00 p.m.

KCWC (Riverton, WY)
Premiere TBD
Saturdays, 9:30 a.m.

IDPTV (Boise, ID)
Premiere January 12
Saturdays, 10:30 a.m.

KQED (San Francisco, CA)
Premiere January 12
Saturdays, 1:30 p.m.

KVIE (Sacramento, CA)
Premiere January 5
Saturdays, 10:30 a.m.

OPB (Portland, OR)

Premiere January 12
Fridays, 12:30 p.m.

The stations below are currently airing the award-winning Season 1!

UNC-TV (Research Triangle Park, NC)
Saturdays, 3:00 p.m.

KBDI (Denver, CO)
Wednesdays, 4:30 p.m.; Thursdays, 3:30 p.m.

KUED (Salt Lake City, UT)
Saturdays, 1:31 p.m.

KCTS (Seattle, WA)
Thursdays, 12:30 a.m.

KTNW (Pullman, WA)
Saturdays, 11:00 a.m.

There are also Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie podcast teasers on iTunes.

Menu for Hope 4 (2007 Edition)

Menubig_5 The fourth annual Menu for Hope has begun. Food bloggers and readers worldwide are raising funds, a $10 raffle ticket at a time, until December 21st for the UN World Food Programme, this year for the people of Lesotho.

Lesotho is a small country in southern Africa, completely landlocked by South Africa. It's about the size of Maryland, with a similar climate - hot, wet summers and cold, dry winters - but the terrain is mountainous and at a high elevation. The population is a little more than that of Philadelphia. English is actually the official language of the Basotho and the literacy rate among women is an impressive, with men at 75%. Yet a baby born this year can only expect to live to roughly 36 years-old. About a quarter of the population is malnourished.

MFH4 chose Lesotho to receive funds because of a new WFP initiative to buy food from local, sustainable farmers to supply the national School Feeding program, which provides morning porridge and lunch to 137,000 kids. The number includes a handful of the country's nomadic herd boys, some as young as 7 years-old, who tend livestock in the country's highlands, living alone in harsh conditions months at a time.

I am humbled by the generosity of friends who donated prizes, you for buying raffle tickets, everyone who has worked tirelessly on the campaign, and the Basotho themselves for sharing their spirit of hope.

UC24, UC31, UC32, UC33, UC 34: Personalized Copy of Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations: Around the World on an Empty Stomach" (five copies will be available)
Tony will sign each copy of his behind-the-scenes, on-the-road, travel journal to the winner or recipient of choice. The photo-filled book - featuring international food porn, medical anomalies, and the worst bathroom in the world - will be shipped directly from the show's headquarters, Zero Point Zero Production.

UC25: PolyScience Thermal Circulator (Model 7306C): Priced at $925, PolyScience is the gold standard in new culinary technology and their thermal circulator, one of the most coveted pieces of professional equipment worldwide. Used by Grant Achatz at Alinea, Thomas Keller at The French Laundry, and on Iron Chef America to control the heating of liquid within 0.09F/0.05C, up to 300F/150C, for revolutionary sous-vide cooking.

UC26: Moto "Chef for a Day" with Elvex Legionnaire Goggles: Moto Executive Chef Homaro Cantu (pictured) and Pastry Chef Ben Roche will lead you beyond the known limits of taste, texture, and technique. I will include a pair of Elvex Legionnaire goggles, for your ocular protection while working with liquid nitrogen and the class IV laser.

UC27: Roquette 1797 Absinthe: An extremely limited edition authentic absinthe based on a recipe discovered in a manuscript dated 1797, when the drink still hovered between liquor and potion. This unusual, spicy and complex absinthe was distilled in very small batches by absintheurs Peter Schaf and David Nathan-Maister in antique alembics in Pontarlier, France. Unfortunately absinthe cannot be shipped to Canada or a number of countries

UC28: Hot Doug's"Today's Celebrity Sausage" Designation and $25 Gift Certificate: Immortalize yourself or your loved one in a gourmet hot dog creation. Your name of choice will go up on the board and website of Chicago's beloved Sausage Superstore and Encased Meat Emporium. Get the of duck fat fries on Fridays or Saturdays.

How to Participate in A Menu for Hope
1. Choose a prize or prizes from our Menu for Hope full list at Chez Pim or central US list at Kalyn's Kitchen.
2. Go to the donation site at Firstgiving to make a donation.
3. Please specify which prize you'd like in the "personal message" field on the donation form. You must write in how many tickets per prize and use the prize code. (Each $10 you donate will buy one raffle ticket toward any prize. For example, a donation of $50 can be 2 tickets for EU01 and 3 tickets for EU02 - please write 2xEU01, 3xEU02.)
4. If your company matches your charity donation, please check the appropriate box and fill in the information so we can claim the corporate match.
5. Please check the box allowing us to see your email address so we can contact you if you win. Your email address will not be shared with anyone. Visit Chez Pim on Wednesday, January 9, for the results of the raffle.

Fishin' Lake Michigan with Dave Pasternack

(View photos as a set or slideshow)

Last week I heard that Dave Pasternack, fisherman, chef, and co-creator with Mario Batali of Esca in Manhattan was going fishing for salmon on Lake Michigan. My friend Diane had told me about their amazing expedition in the Long Island Sound this summer for the upcoming season of Gourmet’s Diary of a Foodie so I just had to tag along. Early Monday morning, especially challenging after a wine-paired dinner in his honor at Sepia the night before, I found myself bracing against cold wind and waves alongside Dave aboard the King Fisherman. I joined a few other hopeful fishing guests, including Bruce Sherman, chef and partner of North Pond, the fiercely local and seasonal restaurant on the grounds of Lincoln Park.

The captain kept us out the rip raff and we dropped some monkey puke, but never did find a honey hole and didn’t even get a bump.

To translate the fisher-speak, we avoided the strong shore current, lowered some distinctive green trolling lures, but didn’t find a cache of fish, nor did any even nose our lines in interest.

“I can’t believe we’re gonna get skunked,” said Dave with disgusted disbelief, clearly unused to fishless trips.

He was in town for his beautiful new book “The Young Man and the Sea: Recipes and Crispy Fish Tales from Esca”. The Sepia dinner had included pristine crudo of Nantucket bay scallops with lemon and chervil, as well as meaty roasted monkfish with cauliflower stewed with saffron and Gaeta olives, recipes from the book.

On the boat, while we waited in vain for a bite, he lovingly described how he’d prepare our fish. “I'd just like to fry it up so the skin gets nice and crispy,” said Pasternack. Another passenger asked if temperature mattered. “Absolutely,” he said, “you want to keep it low so the fish stays moist.”

Ultimately a high wind advisory with oncoming 45-mph winds kept us away from the fish, which were about an hour out. That was nothing to Dave though - he'd just survived a storm three weeks ago that even he described as rough. It took him eight hours to get back to shore. My stomach lurched into my throat just thinking about it.

Dave will be opening a fish shack at the new Shea stadium (aka Citi Field, new home of the Mets in Queens). He said he’s thinking about seafood hotdogs and fried clams and oysters. “I want to keep it simple,” he said, “something you can eat and still watch the game.” Look for it, along with an outpost of Shake Shack, on Opening Day 2009.

And remember to check your local listings for Dave on Gourmet’s Diary of a Foodie early next year on PBS to see if he had better luck on his home surf. (Spoiler alert: Diane said he did. Wait until you see what he caught and how he cooked it. That’s what got me out on that boat.)

Esca
402 West 43rd Street
New York, New York 10036
212-564-7272

"A New Fish Shack for Pasternack" on Gourmet's Choptalk

The Next Iron Chef

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(photo by Food Network)

As I've been watching the inspiring Next Iron Chef, I've had to suppress an increasingly panicked thought: please dear God don't let me be Knowltoned.

Andrew Knowlton is the hipster judge, flanking the glamorous Donatella Arpaia, with the earnest Michael Ruhlman. Andrew is also an Associate Editor at Bon Appétit. Michael vouches for him and has even called for an end to the Andy-bashing. Sure it started out fun, but the crowd's turned really ugly.

In my few minutes on television, I've been a minor side-kick or protected in the genteel world of PBS. With all due - and well-deserved - respect to the esteemed Mr. Knowlton, I wonder if my own long, dark hair will trigger a similar primal mob response.

In the meantime, I'd like to offer some of my own answers to questions about the TNIC:

Yes, you really do have to turn off kitchen hoods for audio - otherwise you'd bitch about the bad sound and we'd have to subtitle everything. And yes, it's much hotter than just not having a/c. Michael Symon said it got up to 137F and Aarón Sanchez needed an IV after taping.

Yes, chefs do sometimes sweat into the food. In fact, there's an infamous legend amongst French boulangers. Because of the heat from the ovens, bread makers used to always work shirtless. They'd bend over ancient wooden mixing troughs set on the floor - forget about Hobarts. As they worked, their sweat would wash over their bodies, down their arms, into the dough, and that's what made authentic French baguettes taste so good.

Yes, sexism and racism is alive and well in and out of the kitchen. I can't tell you how many times I've walked into a kitchen and was assumed a Japanese pastry princess - and yes, that in and of itself is a racist, sexist, culinarily biased comment.

Michael Symon used the Anti-Griddle too soon. He should have waited for the top to frost completely over - the sign that it was down to its constant -30F. I'm guessing he didn't spritz it with non-stick spray either - a trick Phillip Preston uses. Phillip is the PolyScience president and culinary product designer. You'll see Phillip using a prototype non-stick top Anti-Griddle and other new technology in the upcoming season of Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie, which premieres early next year.

The stirring thing that Jill Davie touched - or tried to touch before Alton Brown scolded her - was a laboratory stirrer. Normally you stick the small metal rod in a beaker, add your liquid, place the beaker on an electric magnetized pad, turn it on, and the rod spins, thereby stirring the contents.

Aarón tried to pour a white powder into a little clear plastic cup on a gram scale. Just place a small piece of silicone parchment paper on the scale, use the tip of a paring knife to transfer your powder, and then lift and funnel your paper to pour the powder.

Morou Ouattara used long tweezers to plate his salad. Precision tiny tools are all the rage in restaurant kitchens. You can find tweezers similar to Marou's at JB Prince.

While it seemed unfair that Gavin Kaysen's food was accidentally dunked in ice water by the culinary crew, according to Michael Ruhlman's exclusive report, if that had been a catered event, sadly the clients would not have cared how it happened. I commend Gavin for taking ultimate responsibility. That's what honorable chefs do.

As far as the airline food challenge - it's not about who does it first, but who does it best.

Next week, The Next Iron Chef goes to Munich and Paris.

Can. Not. Wait.

El Bulli 2008 Reservations


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UPDATE 19 October 2007: From El Bulli: "The restaurant is fully booked for our season 2008. All the reservations are confirmed and we do not have more available options. It is impossible for us to have a waiting list but we will be at your disposal to revise if cancellations are produced when we confirm all the reservations 10 days in advance." The reservations page has also been updated with a calendar. The first day of service will be 02 April. The last day will be 05 October.

Three years ago Luis Garcia and I drove from Roses to a castle in Tarragona, Spain for Oriol Castro's wedding - or rather Luis drove, chain smoked, and sang along baritone to Spanish ballads on the radio while I dozed. He's in charge of reservations and director of the dining room at El Bulli. I'd just finished my stage and volunteered to cook some of the restaurant's signature dishes for the wedding reception with about a dozen other chefs. Oriol is one of two sous-chefs and works with Albert Adrià at El Taller. Albert is the pastry chef, Ferran Adrià's younger brother, head of El Taller (El Bulli's creative workshop), and chef/owner of Bar Inopia in Barcelona. If you've read this far Ferran needs no introduction.

Luis picked me up at 5:00 a.m. in front the stagiaire apartment overlooking Plaça Llevant. My first nights there I slept in an upper bunk above a male chef in a bedroom only slightly wider than the twin-sized beds themselves. I shared the three bedroom apartment with two to five cooks, a food runner, as well as occasional drunken friends and one-night stands. Is it any wonder I can sleep through anything?

On the ride Luis and I talked about the reservations process. He said that the only solution they could see to the impossible demand was to close the restaurant. He was surprised that few people visited the El Bulli Hotel in Sevilla where the restaurant serves El Bulli's greatest hits and Ferran can often be found off-season. I imagine him there in t-shirt, shorts, and flip-flops happily entertaining guests with his lovely wife.

I was surprised that no one had shared the reservations details before. They weren't even on the restaurant's website. I did in 2004 and again in 2005. I thought by last year everyone would know. Evidently not because I still get desperate emails. So this year, I'll remind you again: it's that time.

If you'd like a reservation at El Bulli next year, then send an email now to bulli@elbulli.com. Simply state your desired dates and number in your party. Remember to include your name, email address, and telephone number. The restaurant is open from April until the end of September/beginning of October, Wednesday to Saturday, for dinner. It's open for lunch in April, May, and June on Sunday only.

I didn't hear back about my 2007 reservation until just before Christmas 2006. After three years of trying, I got a table for eight on September 19, 2007. Because of family health reasons, I did not go.

But in a twist of fate I was asked to judge Iron Chef America on that very same date.

Good luck to you. Please don't call the restaurant. By this time I hope Luis has turned off the phone - and the only sound he hears are beloved Latin love songs.


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Bourdain Beirut Emmy Party (Tony in a Tux!)

Bourdain_beirut_emmy
(Anthony Bourdain, Pat Younge, Myleeta Aga, Jerry Risius, Chris Collins, Lydia Tenaglia, Dave Robinson, Diane Schutz, Chris Martinez)

(See all of Diane's Emmy photos in a set or slideshow)

And the Emmy went to...Ted Koppel!

The News & Documentary Emmys were awarded last night in lovely New York City at the Sheraton and TK won over the Bourdain Beirut episode.

I know, I can't keep track of all these Emmy shows either. Didn't Kathy Griffin already make that Jesus joke? And who knew Sally Field had such big balls?

The most exciting question before this Emmys was not who would win (because it's an honor just to be nominated, etc.) but what my friend Diane would wear. ("Sure you survived bombs in Beirut but what about your dress?") And she was gorgeous in her red-carpet worthy, full-length, black silk gown.

But there's actually not a red carpet for this show. Each nominee does receive a beautifully printed certificate and invitation to the awards ceremony. While they're invited, it's $500 per person - unless your network buys a table and invites you. If a show wins, they only receive one statuette, but nominees can buy one for themselves.

A huge heartfelt congratulations to everyone who worked on Bourdain in Beirut for your nomination. And most importantly you all looked so glamorous. Please note wondrous Zero Point Zero Executive Producer Lydia Tenaglia who just had a baby boy five weeks ago!

Outstanding Informational Programming - Long Form
"Anthony Bourdain in Beirut" (Travel Channel)
Executive Producers: Myleeta Aga, Lydia Tenaglia
Executive Producer and Producer: Chris Collins
Field Producer: Jerry Risius
Segment Producer: Diane Schutz
Host: Anthony Bourdain
28th Annual Emmy Awards for New & Documentary Winners
28th Annual Emmy Awards for News & Documentary Nominations

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